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Sniffing Liberty, by Lee
August 26, 2010
So, I was in London on Monday and stopped by my favourite department store. I was daft enough to forget to smell the new l #8217;Artisan vetiver, but I managed to get my schnozz to hover over much of the new stuff I #8217;d been missing out on.
And #8230; you know #8230; I #8217;ve nothing to report. My occasional Fridays are so low on actual perfume commentary I #8217;m surprised Patty and March haven #8217;t given me the heave-ho. Most of the new left me unengaged or non-plussed. The Costume National Homme was #8230; nice. I #8217;ll try a bit harder. It #8217;s a Ropion creation that charts a journey through the spice route to a sweet amber drydown. It #8217;s truly very pleasant. Though the drydown lacks interest and it #8217;s a little too insistently sweet #8216;n #8217; spicy for me.
So, I got home and looked at my shelves of perfumes and divided them into those that are worn with frequency, those that are in the #8216;have to keep #8217; camp, and those that are surplus to requirements. And the news is, I #8217;m heading to around 30. I feel like I #8217;ve experienced some kind of trascendentally scented colonic treatment.
Meanwhile, the spectacle obsession continues to grow, but that #8217;s altogether another story.
As I #8217;m rambling, I might as well tell you about the scents of my holiday #8211; umbrella pines, iodine, chlorine, mint and lime, dog crap, dried male urine, wafts of restaurant garbage, various eaux de cologne and lemon refreshers, sun tan cream, stale drains, hot concrete, rosemary, lavender, oleander (I didn #8217;t know this had perfume), datura, sweat, cool nights, bright light, hot skin, tuna, olive oil (grass-like), coffee, coconut pastries.
And here #8217;s Portugal #8217;s recessionary evidence. Even in the country #8217;s equivalent of Orange County, $10 million homes half-built and abandoned to graffiti, largely of the misshapen penis variety. The graffiti, not the homes. Though there was a heartfelt message to a missing lover. Perhaps those misshapen penises were saying something profound that I didn #8217;t quite follow.
Lee
(23) Comments bull; Filed in Perfume Review
By Kilian Love and Tears (Patty)
August 25, 2010
There is definitely a Romance.Gone.Bad vibe to the By Kilians. After their foray into ouds this last year and an aphrodisiac (if you like your aphrodisiacs of the spice variety and not oyster #8217;ish), they #8217;ve returned to the #8220;love #8221; theme with Love and Tears.
Calice Becker is the creator of this one, and it is beautifully done. Notes of Bergamot, petitgrain, cypress, jasmine, orange blossom, ylang-ylang and cistus make up the perfume. It #8217;s not over in the very indolic range of jasmine, but more in the greenish tropical jasmine range. Makes sense if you want your love with pristine tears instead of dirty, rutting goat sex. I #8217;m more in favor of the latter, but I wouldn #8217;t turn down a bottle of Love and Tears or even a more pure love full of happy tears. Not that I #8217;d want to live with it regularly, but it would be worth a visit.  Brief.  The perfume I could live with a lot longer, it really is lovely.
So if you want jasmine to be a little more green with a light indolic touch (no fecal for you, thanks!) and more tropical, you should definitely look into Love and Tears.
Denyse has reviewed this too.  It #8217;s due out late September at Luckyscent, but they included a sample with an order, so I think you can sample earlier than the release date.
Which for you, nice, happy love or something more smutty?
Patty
(14) Comments bull; Filed in Perfume Review
Thinking about Thinking about Perfume
August 24, 2010
By March
I saw Inception the other night.  I know there #8217;s been some discussion and confusion.  Well, I know exactly what happened: I lost eleven dollars and three hours of my life that I will never get back.  By the time we were at the interminable snow-fort/falling van scene, my legs were numb and I was so bored I kept mentally inserting either James Bond on skis or the abominable snow monster from Rudolph into the spectacle before me – anything to relieve the tedium.  Talk about an excellent inception  – wouldn #8217;t the Bumble (preferably accompanied by Yukon Cornelius, Hermey, Burl Ives and some cheesy orchestral music) have been perfect in that scene?  I #8217;m telling you.  Instead I finally got up and left – walked up and down the hall awhile, getting the blood flowing, and thought about perfume.
How much should we have to think about perfume, as opposed to just wearing it?  If I were going to the opera, I #8217;d do some research first.  I #8217;d look it up online, learn the story, research maybe the composer, or (depending on the venue) the performers or the particular production.  Otherwise I #8217;m just sitting there struggling to read the libretto, having no clue what #8217;s going on because they #8217;re singing in another language.  Sure, I think the music of Turandot is achingly beautiful (go ahead and laugh, it #8217;s probably cliché, I don #8217;t care, I love it) but if I #8217;m going to have a reaction other than oooh, pretty! I need more information.
Wall-art has a bit more gray area (no pun intended.)   I live in D.C. and spend a fair amount of time visiting the National Gallery of Art, the Freer, the Hirshhorn, etc., although I am no particular connoisseur.  I #8217;m unapologetically old school – I like representational art, and I have to read up to understand what I #8217;m looking at with a lot of modern art.  (Aside: the only time I have behaved badly in a gallery as an adult was viewing the installation in the East Wing of an #8220;artist #8221; my 88-year-old father and I still refer to as #8220;light-bulb guy. #8221;)  Yves Klein #8217;s show at the Hirshhorn probably seems a lot more interesting if you know about Klein blue.  There are layers of information in almost any painter #8217;s work.  You can be charmed by the Dutch masters #8217; blowsy, larger-than-life floral arrangements – the incredible realism and detail – and that #8217;s good enough, yes? (Also: they #8217;re on the way to the Vermeers.) But it #8217;s also interesting to know that many of the elements – the fading flowers, the broken petals, the insects – were meant to signify (and depending on your perspective, celebrate) the transitory nature of our existence. Is looking at one of those master paintings #8220;better #8221; with more information?  I don #8217;t know.
I could argue with myself all evening (even better with friends like you, preferably over a pitcher of adult beverages) about perfume and this sort of background knowledge.  I #8217;m not arguing the perfume should smell #8220;good #8221; – I like all sorts of scents that don #8217;t exactly soothe the senses.  But I want the application of perfume to trigger something –  something other than boredom, one hopes.   How much should I know about a perfume #8217;s intention?  Its provenance?  As Carmencanada points out, the downside of the #8220;celebrity perfumer #8221; is you #8217;ve got Alberto Morillas #8217; name behind a scent that might as well come in a BBW canister for all the artistry it displays.  (Is this a criminal waste of talent?  Absolutely.  Why do perfumers take these jobs?  It must be like beating your head against the wall in slow motion while drinking a vat of white musk, maybe with a chaser of vanilla.)
Learning about perfume comes in handy in ways that enchant me.  Let #8217;s say you fall in love with a vintage bottle of YSL Paris – and why shouldn #8217;t you?  I did, and I don #8217;t even like roses.  Well, then, with a little research that could take you in all sorts of directions.  It was done by Sophia Grojsman, who has a reputation for astonishing roses in perfumery.  You could make a game of it – pursue other fragrances she #8217;s done, see how you feel about those.  Or you could fall in love with the note itself – rose – and sniff around through various other perfumers #8217; interpretations – how about Malle #8217;s Lipstick Rose?  Something really different like a rose-oudh?   The Rosines, an entire line devoted to displaying various facets of rose?    This continues to be one of my favorite ways to explore new perfumes – by category (house, nose, note.)  And that takes a little research.
But in the end, how much should we have to know about a perfume to #8220;properly #8221; #8220;appreciate #8221; it?   To appreciate the Humiecki amp; Graefs, for instance, with their wackadoo prosetry – do I really need to know about the state of how men cry to #8220;get #8221; Skarb?  Or is all their blurbage just a winking joke, a way of making me pay attention to the brand, rather like the antics of Etat Libre and the names of their scents?   The chances are almost zero that I #8217;m running around in a scent called Don #8217;t Get Me Wrong, Baby, I Don #8217;t Swallow (is that the one with the penis the bottle?  Oh, wait, no, it #8217;s Secretions Magnifique.)   But that #8217;s my loss, right?  I #8217;m so put off before I even try it.  I #8217;m too close-minded.
I yearn for the days of the old-fashioned marketing myths and delusions – you know, this perfume is all about being sexy or mysterious or powerful or innocent or transgressive.   I can love Opium not just for the way it smells but because it #8217;s called … Opium!  Or Poison.  (Or Addict, or Rush.)  Beyond that, what do we really need to know about them?  Nothing.  Ingredients eco-sourced and collected by (unionized) nuns at dusk?   Done by [insert famous perfumer here]?  Nope, none of that.  I don #8217;t have to read any ad copy to understand how via my perfume I #8217;ve been a bad, bad girl.  I can just look at the name or the image and know it.
Does a fragrance have balance?  Is it pleasing, does it surprise? These are some of the questions Angela asks on Now Smell This, as she compares perfume to another art – the preparation of fine food.   In the end (and somewhat ironically) I think I #8217;m going to drop perfume in a category close to food – even though I don #8217;t necessarily love too much of one with the other.  Perfume can provide the same kind of highbrow and lowbrow thrills.  It can provide instant joy, or be something that requires a bit of a development of a taste for a note, the way one acquires a taste for oysters.   I think that perfume has, for me, an element of immediacy that food does, less distancing than visual or musical art appreciation, if that makes any sense at all.  (Is smell and taste more primal, more fundamental than sight or sound?)  Okay, I #8217;m going to pour myself a drink and argue with myself over that last bit.
Final notes: congratulations to The Perfumed Court for their mention in the New York Times Sunday magazine article (very interesting) on AbdesSalaam Attar!  Also, due to a last minute scheduling change, I will be away today at an undisclosed location with Diva and Enigma, getting in touch with our senses via funnel cakes, arcade games, and barf-inducing rides like the Himalaya.  They better be playing Heart #8217;s Barracuda.  Rock on.
March
(50) Comments bull; Filed in Perfume Review
Sex Pistols and India
August 23, 2010
I know I have turned into a Comments Loser. Not because I don #8217;t wanna, but work/life/commitments just allow so little time on all the things I want to do, and something has to give. But I get e-mails with every comment, and I read them all.
My post last week talked about India, and several of you asked about that trip, so I wanted to do a quick post on it.  A friend of mine who has been there before wanted to take people she liked and knew well with her, people who hadn #8217;t been there before and could rough it and wouldn #8217;t be whiners.
It had really never occurred to me that I wanted to go to India until she asked me.  Once I was asked, I knew that it was one place I had to go.
We #8217;re flying into Delhi, then we go touristy to the Taj Mahal. Then it #8217;s off to Bagdogra by plane with a jeep to Gangtok. This is all in the Sikkim region, north of Bangladesh and east of Nepal, south of Tibet.  So we spend a day in Gantok, then jeep to Pelling, hike to a lake (I #8217;m getting a little worried about what altitude we #8217;re at here), then hike to Yuksom, another hike to the waterfalls and a monastery.
Then we leave this area, fly back to Delhi, take a train to Hardiwar, then we are in Rishikesh for 2-3 days, then back to Delhi for shopping in the markets, and then we go home.  I know, right?  I have my books on India that I #8217;ve just started, and I #8217;m really overwhelmed at just how different this is going to be from my regular life.
I #8217;ve seen Eat, Pray, Love.  I #8217;m not a huge fan of the movie or Julia Roberts, but it has its moments of personal clarity that did incent me to pick up the book so I can get past the Julia Roberts irritation to try and appreciate the story on its own. I think the India section in the movie could have been a lot better.  I mean, did she really just hang around the Ashram for four months? Who does that? I #8217;m not the Ashram sort at all, though a week or two there really does sound lovely.  But I #8217;d never do an ashram or monastery or anything for months without equal amounts of time exploring the country.
The movie version of Eat, Pray, Love makes me think of Etat #8217;s Sex Pistols scent.  A lot of buildup to something great, but it feels more like a washed-out version of something else that was so much better in the original.  I had a lot of hope for Sex Pistols, especially after the brilliance of the  Tilda Swinton fragrance, which I adore, but it feels like #8217;70s or #8217;80s men #8217;s cologne, and I don #8217;t mean that in a good way.  Gail told me it would be a disappointment, but I kept hoping for weird to show up #8211; bubblegum, urine, spunk, anything? I #8217;d stare at my arm the three times I #8217;ve tested it, knowing there was more to it.  Alas, ordinary, already done is all there is.
More India tips from those who have been there.  Or tell me the biggest ordinary disappointment from a perfume you #8217;ve had.
Patty
(41) Comments bull; Filed in Etat Libre d'Orange,Perfume Review
Smokin #8217; Grass
August 22, 2010
By Anita
(hey there everyone #8212; we #8217;ll be putting our names up here so you know who #8217;s posting)
August in these parts #8211; what a mess #8211; even the kids have lost their zest for playing outside.  It #8217;s  as if they are beginning to adjust their internal thermometers to Classroom temps #8211; out here there are few Summer Maths/Language Camps or internships #8211; no, out here it #8217;s like a timewarp, with kids riding their bikes and fishing and just hanging out all summer long..so they #8217;re ready to get back to a routine, even as they crab about it.
So why am I going on about kids? who knows? #8211; I just got off on a tangent, though it does tie into the transitional tone I #8217;m aiming for (stick with me -  I #8217;m going somewhere with this).  Oh, yes.  Transition.  School?  August.    I dunno about you but when I was a girl, in Catholic school, you only got the first 1 or 2 days (and the last few days) of the school year to wear civilian clothes #8211; and we were all so desperate to show our New Fall Togs #8211; imagine the horror of 20 7th grade girls in wool turtlenecks and those faux kilts (with the giant pins, remember those?) #8211; in a non-AC classroom.  In Illinois.  In August.  Oh, the humanity.
Right now my inner 7th grader is aching to wear some fall scents  but it #8217;s not happening.  It #8217;s still too hot during the day and it #8217;s All Damp 24/7, raining every other day, out of nowhere, with the gale-force winds and downed trees, then blistering sunshine.   Then rain.  Then the amphibians come out.  Then it #8217;s surface-of-the-sun hot again.  Just weird.  But still damp #8211; all the time.  No matter if it #8217;s 58F @ 3am (bliss!) or 90F at noon #8211; it #8217;s soaking wet, the kind  where you have to throw the sheets in the dryer before you go to bed.  And everything I put on  just smells weird, like maybe I #8217;m personally mildewed #8211; except Vetiver.   But not the #8216;pretty #8217; vetiver (think Guerlain and Tom Ford #8217;s lovely Grey Vetiver  ).  No, I #8217;m talkin #8217; VETIVERS #8211; the ones  that are so viscous they come out of the bottle like Alaga syrup.  I think it was Carter who busted me out of my vetiver complacency via Turtle Vetiver, which started me on the path.  Because I live in a very damp house (that may have an actual cistern(ew) under part of it) I had no problem believing that Isabelle Doyen could create a vetiver that smells like turtles #8211; after all, my house smells like frogs and there are toads in the bushes and snails on the siding after a rainstorm and the thought of the cistern freaks me out but I digress #8230;  Turtle Vetiver  is beautiful on a hot summer day and it does not smell like turtles but it #8217;s wrong for this sodden, froggy, transitional weather -  in Turtle Vetiver the root is vaguely damp and it amps into something ozonic .  I was looking for those really crackly, smoky dry vets that make you wonder if somebody #8217;s sneaking a toke in the backyard.     The best example is an essential oil from Australia that has to be diluted in jojoba,  so it doesn #8217;t peel the skin off your wrist.  Beautiful in a burner, though.    But Carol (WAFT by Carol) sent me a couple of Eden Botanicals that are so strong they transcend perfumery and speak directly to the damp #8211; and beat it BACK!    Heck, I don #8217;t know whether to wear this stuff or roll it up and smoke it!
If  you love Vetiver and it #8217;s damp where you live, I urge you to try these.  If you hate vetiver you might as well try them, too, just to see what Vetiver freaks are all on about #8211; the Organic Vetiver is a bit more wearable, I think, though I prefer the Surinam Vetiver #8211; it came charging out of the little vial with its jaws snapping, like one of those awful SyFy alligators.  Either (or both) are perfect to carry through this weird, wet time of year.  If it #8217;s dry and hot where you are, though,  beware #8211; they might just spontaneously combust!
Vetiver Freaks:  what are your faves? Vetiver Haters:  Why No love?
ps.  Hey, Natalie!  PLEASE forgive me #8211; you sent a note via #8216;contact us #8217;.  Patty sent it to me.   I lost it (I #8217;m a loser) -  I can #8217;t torture Patty to go through the 5000 emails to resend, I just can #8217;t.  Would you please click on my name (I #8217;ll be replying to any comments that come up) and send me your info again?  I need to get the 6T and Cordovan Rose out to you!
photo:  alligator snapping turtle/ itsnature.org
Eden Botanicals:  I already told you, Big Brother.  Read the post!
Musette
(47) Comments bull; Filed in Blame March,Guerlain,Perfume Review
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Sniffing Liberty, by Lee
By Kilian Love and Tears (Patty)
Thinking about Thinking about Perfume
Sex Pistols and India
Smokin #8217; Grass
Blame March! (Nava)
Life #8217;s Pincushion (Patty)
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Louise: Just flying through to throw some kisses your way ; )
The L'A Vet was pleasant...Kate: Mention of fragrance or no, any post containing the word 'penis' is a must-read in...Bev: A "transcendentally scented colonic."
Love it!!!...carter: Over your consciousness stream....QuinnCreative: Just keep writing, I love to read even desultory notes of yours. I like it...Tamara*J: Don't fret, summer is pretty much over, perhaps you'll get your second wind so to...March: I know you weren't wild about Call Me Al Oudh, but ... well, we kinda...Musette: Doll, just keep writing whatever. We'll read it, and happily! There does seem...Tom: I'll read anything you type, my friend.
Too bad you didn't sniff that new vetiver; I'd...tammy: Well, you said yourself we need more chests, damn it. Just sayin'........Tara C: Love your posts Lee, no matter the subject! I agree the perfumery news is...Lee: Ba-doom-cha! ...Lee: You're a darling to say so....Lee: Oh, but it was only one house amongst many palatial residences. It was quite lonely...Lee: Lenses are crazily expensive - I use a variety of places to get them cheaper....
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